Kundan, With a Modern Twist

Written by Arya Garg

If you haven't heard about kundan jewellery then you must be living under a rock — or outside India. But in the slight chance you missed out on one of the oldest legacy jewellery-making arts from India, here's a quick read.

Kundan jewellery is a testament to India's richly diverse history and skilled craftsmanship, with pieces that reflect an advanced jewellery-making knowledge preserved and passed down through several generations. A beloved staple in almost every Indian household, here's how we embrace this age-old art to defy conventionality through our designs.

First, a quick rewind to 2,500 years ago

As one of the oldest forms of jewellery in India, kundan traces its history back over 2,500 years, all the way to the Mughal and Rajputi era. The highly skilled, precision-intensive technique originated in Rajasthan, where it flourished under Mughal and Rajputana patronage — which is why traditional kundan jewellery still draws resemblance to the pieces seen adorning royalty of the yesteryears. You have also seen it in all your Bollywood period classics, from Mughal-e-Azam to Jodhaa Akbar to Padmaavat and more.

So how did it find its way from the royal gates to our wardrobes?

Initially reserved for royal families, kundan was a signifier of wealth, opulence and timeless fashion. Made with 24-carat pure gold in intricately handcrafted, precise pieces that took upwards of four months to prepare, each one was one of a kind.

While these grandiose pieces had already made their way into people's hearts, with time and a more refined understanding of the art, the commercialisation of kundan commenced. Jewellery began to be made with more affordable alternatives to gold, and the use of semi-precious multicoloured gemstones and uncut diamonds made it all possible. Emulating the same essence and similar finishing to the jewellery worn by royals, kundan became a trusted investment for many Indians — timeless jewellery that holds history and carries forward an evergreen charm.

Today kundan is a monument of diversity and inclusivity, worn and revered with the same affection by all people alike.

The process: long story long

Just kidding. Five steps, and every one of them is done by hand.

  1. Gadhayi — a skeletal framework for the piece is structured with gold or silver strips.
  2. Paadh — wax is poured into this framework and moulded according to the design.
  3. Khudayi — the outer surface is engraved with designs and patterns.
  4. Meenakari — the engraved patterns of the framework are filled in with various natural colours.
  5. Jadayi — the embellishing, with everything from uncut diamonds and polkis to emeralds, rubies and other gemstones, depending on the need.
A karigar shaping the Gadhayi framework, the first step of the kundan process, at the Bhavya Ramesh workshop in Jaipur
Gadhayi — the framework, shaped by hand at our Jaipur workshop.

Embracing unconventionality through a traditional art

A brand rooted in India, built on the values of embracing culture through an unconventional take on Indian jewellery by celebrating eccentricity, Bhavya Ramesh Jewelry carries this age-old art forward to make timeless, unusual, modern pieces. Bhavya, our founder, has been an avid admirer of Rajasthani jewellery, so employing kundan in our designs came organically rather than as a strategised step. It is made real by our skilled in-house artisans at our manufacturing facility in Jaipur.

Kundan karigar at work in the Bhavya Ramesh manufacturing facility in Jaipur
A kundan karigar at our manufacturing facility in Jaipur.

Your staple jewellery and beyond — earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces, ear cuffs — can all be found in our collections in kundan settings, with a variety to choose from. Because who decides traditions have to look traditional.

Kundan pieces, made in Jaipur

A few of the pieces where you can see the setting up close:

For more pushing-the-edge jewellery, browse the full collection.